Are you planning a visit to the whisky island and looking for the perfect Islay itinerary? I spent several days on this beautiful island and I’ve come up with what I believe to be the ideal 5-day itinerary for first-time visitors to Islay. This post was written as part of a paid campaign with Explore Islay & Jura. All opinions are my own.
Whisky, water, wildlife, and wellness: these were the themes of my very first trip to the Isle of Islay. These are also the reasons many people flock to the island every year; in search of the perfect dram and a holiday that engages all the senses.
Islay (pronounced ‘eye-la’) is known as the Queen of the Hebrides, and it’s the most southern of the Inner Hebrides islands. It is located off the west coast of Scotland in the region of Argyll; Northern Ireland lies directly south of Islay, with neighbouring island Jura to the east and Gigha a little further south-east.
If you are a fan of whisky, make sure you visit Islay when you plan a trip to Scotland. Known as the ‘whisky island’, Islay has nine working distilleries and is home to the second oldest working distillery in Scotland, Bowmore.
During summer, I spent a whirlwind four days eating, drinking, cycling and sailing my way around Islay with my friend Kay. I’ve since been back to Islay with my husband and son in tow- and we explored the island in a slightly different way (travelling with a toddler changes how you travel!).
My Islay itinerary is perfect for someone visiting Islay for the first time. It includes a visit to several whisky distilleries, wildlife watching, and wild swimming; indulging in freshly caught seafood, shopping at local artisan shops, and so much more.
I’ve also included some family-friendly suggestions if you are travelling with little ones.
If you’re not into whisky, there are plenty of activities I’ve included that you will enjoy. I’ve also included my tips on how to get to Islay, getting around the island, and where to stay. I even added an extra day, because I believe you need at least five days when you visit Islay for the first time.
I hope my Islay itinerary provides inspiration for your visit to the island of magic, water, and whisky!
How to get to Islay
The CalMac ferry from Kennacraig to Port Askaig
Getting to Islay is an adventure of its own. There are several ways to reach the island- all of them incredibly scenic.
Car + ferry
This is the option that I took, seeing as I live only a few hours away from the ferry port at Kennacraig.
The drive to Kennacraig is lovely; if you’re leaving from Edinburgh it takes 3.5 hours to reach the ferry port. It’s only a 2.5-hour drive from Glasgow. As soon as you arrive in the region of Argyll and Bute, the scenery begins to open up.
Be sure to stop at the Rest and Be Thankful Viewpoint and soak up the views. A good place to stop for a coffee, a quick bite to eat or some shopping is Inveraray, a small yet bustling town on the western shore of Loch Fyne. If you have time explore Inveraray Castle, a stunning Gothic country house and the seat of the Dukes of Argyll.
CalMac operates two ferries from Kennacraig to Islay. One takes you to Port Askaig on the east coast- this is the ferry you take if you want to carry on to Jura. The other takes you to Port Ellen which is on the south of Islay. You can sail into one and depart from the other if you wish- it all depends on what makes sense for your itinerary.
Loving life on the CalMac ferry!
Public transport + ferry
You can also travel on public transport from Edinburgh and Glasgow to reach the Kennacraig Ferry Terminal. From Glasgow, you can take the Citylink bus to the terminal, and from Edinburgh, you can take the train to Glasgow and then jump on the bus.
Catch a flight
You can also fly from Glasgow to Islay with Logan Air. The airport is located in Glenegedale, with plenty of hotels and guest houses located a short distance away.
Tip: Try to sit on the right-hand side of the plane so you can spot the whisky distilleries from the air with their huge black and white lettering!
Read more: 10 islands you can visit from Oban
Getting around Islay
Kilarrow Church in Bowmore
One of the best ways to explore Islay is by taking your car across on the Calmac ferry.
There is plenty to see on the journey, and once there you’ll be glad you have the car to explore the less accessible places on Islay.
The crossing is just over two hours long and you can purchase sandwiches and hot meals on the ferry. I recommend booking the MV Finlaggan ferry if possible- it’s a larger, more modern vessel, and there’s a great kids area to keep the little ones entertained. The MV Hebridean is the older ferry of the two, smaller, and a bit dated. However, both will get you to Islay, which is the important thing!
I thoroughly enjoyed rolling down the windows and letting the air salted by the ocean blow around me while taking in the vast views of land and sea.
Driving can be problematic if you want to sample a few of the island’s drams. If you’d like to explore the whisky distilleries on Islay and not have to worry about driving, I recommend hiring a taxi. There are a number of taxi drivers that even provide half-day or full-day private tours if you would like to spend the day visiting several distilleries. However, if you’d like to drive, the distilleries will give you a driver’s dram to take home to enjoy.
There are two bus routes you can take to explore Islay. The first bus runs between Bowmore and Portnahaven, while the second bus runs between Port Askaig and Port Ellen. The buses run from Monday to Saturday, 7 am to 6 pm and do not operate on Sundays. Click here for the timetable.
Another fun way to explore is to hire an e-bike from Islay E-Wheels and cycle around the island. A great activity is cycling the Three Distilleries Pathway, which starts in Port Ellen and links the Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg distilleries!
You can also book a whisky tour with a tour operator to take you around. Rabbie’s have a 4-day Islay whisky tour departing from Edinburgh. That way you won’t have to worry about getting to Islay, or being transported around the island.
👉 For more tips, my friend Kay from The Chaotic Scot has put together an essential guide to visiting Islay!
Accommodation in Islay
Recommended Bed and Breakfast
Glenmachrie House
I stayed at the traditional 19th-century farmhouse and bed and breakfast, Glenmachrie House, which is conveniently located next to the airport. Glenmachrie House is owned by the lovely Rachel and Alastair; they both grew up on Islay, and have a wealth of knowledge about the islands’ hidden gems.
From the moment you arrive at Glenmachrie, you are made to feel welcome. You are greeted with a traditional Scottish afternoon tea, with freshly baked treats made by Rachel. I could have stayed and chatted to Rachel about Islay’s history all day if I didn’t have so many places to explore!
The guesthouse comprises of four comfortable bedrooms and a drawing room with a cosy fireplace. The breakfast room is filled with an array of food, with fresh eggs from the chickens who roam the garden. Let’s put it this way- you won’t go hungry!
The back garden and pond (which was created in the shape of the island) is a tranquil space to ponder life. The Glenegedale River passes through the rear of the property, where it flows to meet the Machrie River. Laggan Bay is to the west beyond a vast expanse of green fields and moorland unfolds into the horizon.
The property is the perfect oasis away from it all, despite it only being four miles north of Port Ellen, and six miles from Bowmore. It’s a great wee place to retreat to after a day of exploring.
A highlight of my stay was watching the sun sink and dip into the sea, bathing the wild orchids that grew in the back garden in a golden glow. It’s moments of stillness such as this that remind me just how special Scotland is.
👉 Price: From £150 per night for two sharing; From £105 per night for a single
👉 Cooked Breakfast included
👉 Free parking
👉 Free WiFi
The field at the rear of Glenmachrie- bliss at sunset!
Recommended Hotel
The Islay Hotel is a 4-star eco-hotel in the heart of Port Ellen, conveniently located right next to the ferry terminal. The hotel overlooks the harbour, marina and two sandy beaches, and has a range of accommodation available, including double, super king, and family-sized rooms.
The hotel has a restaurant serving locally sourced seafood and meat, and a whisky bar with over 100 different whiskies to sample. They also have live music nights twice a week.
This is a great base if you plan on getting around the island using public transport or by taxi.
👉 Price: From £285 per night during high season
👉 Breakfast included
👉 Cots available on request
👉 Dog-friendly
👉 Free WiFi
Family-friendly accommodation
If you’re travelling with wee ones, I recommend The Barn at Ballymeanach Cottages in Portnahaven.
We stayed here when Alex was 18 months old, and it was well set up for babies and toddlers with a cot, high chair, and baby gate for the stairs.
The Barn has two bathrooms and two bedrooms with super king-sized beds- great for kids to share or if you’d like a separate bedroom from your toddler!
It’s also self-catering with a large kitchen and dining area that seats six. There is also a pull-out couch so the property can sleep up to 6 people if required.
👉 Price: £600 for 4 nights during high season (there is a minimum 4-night stay) which works out to be £150 per night
👉 Self-catering
👉 Washing machine and dryer
👉 Cots available on request
👉 Free parking
👉 Free WiFi
Islay Whisky Distilleries
Laphroaig, one of the most famous distilleries on Islay
Islay is known as the whisky island for good reason; it is the island that gives its whisky its distinct smokey smell and flavour. Islay is known for its peaty single malt whisky, the flavour of which transpires when the barley is dried by peat fire- a resource that is vast on Islay.
There are currently nine working distilleries on Islay, with more to come. The nine distilleries are:
- Ardbeg
- Ardnahoe
- Bowmore
- Bruichladdich
- Bunnahabhain
- Caol Ila
- Kilchoman
- Lagavulin
- Laphroaig
To visit and tour all of the whisky distilleries on Islay, you would need at least 3-4 days.
Islay Beer, Wine and Gin
Port Ellen
You may be surprised to discover that Islay also makes beer, wine and gin!
Islay Ales
”That’s a really nice beer!”
I’ll take my husband’s word for it, as he sampled the Islay Ales IPA on our Calmac ferry.
Islay Ales is a craft brewery located in Glenegedale. They currently have three craft beers: Finlaggan IPA, Lochindaal hazy, and Big Strand Lager. Their beer is available to try across Islay in most bars and hotels, and in the local Spar shops.
A visitor centre is currently being built- I guess we’ll have to plan another trip to Islay when this opens!
The Botanist gin
Did you know that Bruichladdich Distillery also makes one of the best gins in the world? They have their own forager who hand-picks botanicals for the gin across the island. The Botanist is quite literally, the island in a bottle!
Islay Wine
My most surprising discovery was that there is a winery on Islay! You can sample and purchase Islay wine from a small store on Lennox Street in Port Ellen.
I enjoyed the Rhubarb wine- fruity and delicious.
5-day islay itinerary
I’ve created this itinerary based on both of my trips to Islay. It has a balance between visiting whisky distilleries and also enjoying some of the abundant attractions the island has to offer.
Day 1
Whisky tasting at Bunnahabhain distillery
When you arrive on Islay, what is the first thing you should do once you’ve unpacked your bags? Sample the whisky, of course!
By the time we disembarked the ferry at Port Askaig, I could hear the whisky calling my name.
You will start off this Islay itinerary by visiting the distilleries north of Port Askaig. First, you will visit Bunnahabhain Distillery for a whisky tasting. Bunnahabhain means ‘mouth of the river’ in Gaelic; the distillery stands at the mouth of Margadale Spring, which spills into the Sound of Islay.
DID YOU KNOW
For it to be true Scotch whisky, it must be made from mostly malted barley and aged in oak barrels for three years or more.
This distillery is also positioned perfectly for viewing the Paps of Jura.
Bunnahabhain is known for its unpeated whisky, a rarity on Islay seeing as it’s the peat that gives Islay whisky its distinct smokey flavour. They did have one peated whisky for us to sample, however. It was delicious, but overall I enjoyed their 2007 bourbon barrel whisky.
Chilling out at Bunnahabhain
Your next stop will be Ardnahoe Distillery for a tour and tasting. Ardnahoe is the newest distillery on Islay, and they recently released their first bottling, a 5-year-old titled the Inaugural Release.
ISLAY TRAVEL TIP
If you’re driving, the whisky distilleries will give you a driver’s dram to take away and enjoy at your accommodation.
After two distillery visits, you’ll be famished, so I recommend you go back to Port Askaig for dinner at the Port Askaig Hotel.
The hotel pub and restaurant have a fascinating history; at over 400 years old, it is the oldest registered pub on the island. You know a building is old when you have to stoop low to avoid knocking your head on the door frame!
The Port Askaig Hotel will delight anyone who loves traditional Scottish decor; it is furnished with tartan carpet, a sandstone fireplace, and a large collection of Islay whiskies. The hotel also employs Gaelic-speaking staff if you want to hear the local language.
Fresh lobster at the Port Askaig Hotel- delicious!
They also have incredible seafood. I ordered the lobster, and not only was it sizeable, but it was delectable too! They also have amazing seafood platters if you want to try a little bit of everything. All seafood is freshly caught on or near the island by local fishermen.
Day 2
One of the locals!
Make the most of your time in Islay and get up early for a morning of adventure! After a hearty full Scottish breakfast, you will head to Port Ellen Marina for a wildlife boat tour with Islay Sea Adventures.
Islay locals Gus and his daughter, Bronagh, took us on this wonderful tour.
Islay is a great island for birdwatching in Scotland; you have the opportunity to spot many varieties of wildlife, including:
- Seals
- An abundance of birdlife (including sea eagles if you’re lucky!)
- Red deer
- Dolphins
- Porpoises
- Sea Otters
- Wild goats
You also have the opportunity to view some of the distilleries from the sea, and have a wee dram! As we passed Ardbeg, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig we raised a toast and listened intently as Gus explained the history of the distilleries. We were then taken to Islay’s Special Area of Conservation, home to one of Britain’s largest common seal colonies, which is only viewable from the sea.
Our wildlife tour was 2 hours, and I loved every moment. Islay Sea Adventures also offers fishing and foraging tours.
FUN FACT
The distilleries release by-products from the distilling process into the ocean to feed the fish! If you lean in close to the water near a distillery, you can actually smell the barley.
When you make it back to the shore I recommend having lunch in Port Ellen before heading off to another whisky distillery: Bruichladdich Distillery.
Bruichladdich is famous for its whisky, but did you know the distillery also produces an excellent gin? Learn the fascinating story of how they came to produce The Botanist gin, one of the top four gins in the world.
Bruichladdich has their very own forager, James, who hand-forages the island for the 22 botanicals that go into the gin. The recipe is top secret, however, James does carry it around in his shirt pocket!
The gin is made using the exact same recipe, but don’t be surprised if one batch of gin tastes slightly different from the other. The weather has an impact on the botanicals on the island. No matter the very slight difference in taste, The Botanist is quite literally Islay in a bottle!
For dinner, I recommend heading to The Islay Hotel in Port Ellen. The Islay Hotel is an eco-hotel, and they have a beautiful and formal restaurant that looks out across the Port Ellen Marina. If you want to get dressed up to go out for dinner- this is the restaurant you should go to!
You can eat in the restaurant or in their whisky bar, where they serve over 100 malt whiskies.
Their menu features ingredients sourced as close to home as possible: fresh, local seafood, beef, Argyll lamb, and pork. They also have popular staples such as burgers and fish and chips. For a Islay-infused dessert, try the Lagavulin 16 Crème Brulee!
Day 3
Portnahaven
Take day three as a ”choose your own adventure” day. Something I recommend when visiting Islay is to have a slow day; just being on Islay, breathing in the peaty, salty air is a meditative experience that will leave you feeling rejuvenated.
One of my favourite spots on the island is the beaches near the Carraig Fhada Lighthouse.
There is a small parking spot just before the lighthouse- you will see a sign that tells you it’s the final spot for parking.
Carraig Fhada Lighthouse was built in 1832 by the Laird of Islay, Walter Frederick Campbell, in memory of his wife, Lady Ellinor Campbell, who tragically died at 36 years old. It’s the only square-shaped lighthouse in Scotland. It also takes a pretty picture! Port Ellen also inherits its name from Lady Ellinor.
If the weather is warm, go wild swimming at the Singing Sands. The beach gets its name from – you guessed it- the singing sand! It’s said that if you rub the sole of your shoe over the sand, it makes a singing sound.
Carraig Fhada Lighthouse and Singing Sands Beach
You can also go for a drive to Portnahaven, a pretty Scottish village on the southwestern top of Islay. We spotted a field of Highland cows (they were still there on our trip in 2024!) and found the An Gleann honesty box that sold tablet on the side of the road. Take some spare change!
When you reach Portnahaven, walk down to the bay; it is common to see grey seals sunbathing on the rocks and playing in the water. From here, you will also see across to Orsay Island and Eilean Mhic Coinnich (also known as Mackenzie Island). Keep an eye out for the Rhinns of Islay Lighthouse on Orsay.
👉 Check out my pal Kay’s post about things to do on Islay for more inspiration!
Day 4
Kayaking around Port Ellen
On day four of my Islay itinerary, you will have another adventurous start to the day- sea kayaking with Kayak Wild Islay.
Kayak Wild Islay offers half-day and full-day custom tours for all levels and abilities. Dave can take you to some of the best viewpoints of the island; he even brings a camera so you can get some photos of your trip so you can relax and be present in the moment, paddling around in Islay’s glassy, crystal clear waters.
After your kayaking adventure, it’s time to exercise your legs by going on a Fat Bike tour of the Three Distilleries Pathway. Kayak Wild Islay also provides Fat Bike tours, so you can jump straight into this activity after your kayak.
You might be thinking what is a Fat Bike? A Fat Bike is an off-road bicycle that has oversized, balloon-like tyres. Despite their size, they are incredibly light, and perfect for riding along the beach or on uneven terrain. They’re actually much easier to ride than normal bikes, and a lot more fun too!
Islay is a cyclist’s dream as it’s very flat. There are also plenty of scenic farm and coastal roads for you to enjoy.
As I mentioned before, The Three Distilleries Pathway is three miles long and connects the whisky distilleries Laphroaig, Lagavulin, and Ardbeg. On this tour with Dave, you may even spot some otters as he knows where they hang out.
After a day of activities, you’ll no doubt be feeling tired. Treat yourself to a hearty meal at Peatzeria, an Italian restaurant in Bowmore. I highly recommend the Chicken and Haggis pizza!
👉 Planning a trip with your family? Read this guide on visiting Islay with kids
Day 5
Kilchoman whisky tasting on Machir Bay
On your final day in Islay, you’ll start your morning off in Bowmore with some shopping. There are some fantastically creative locals on the island, and during my visit, I was more than happy to spend my paycheque supporting these small businesses and treating myself at the same time.
Start off at The Celtic House, which is filled with books and all the Scotland-themed artisan gifts you could ask for. Then wander up the road to Spirited Soaps, an adorable shop that sells handmade soaps made with whisky, gin, and rum from Islay and Jura.
I purchased a stack of their bath bombs- they leave my skin feeling super soft and nourished, so make sure you buy some of these too!
Next, make sure you stop by Lynnlabels for a coffee and a cake before driving to Islay House Square in Bridgend.
Established in the 1790s, Islay House Square once housed servants and was a location used for workshops. Today it is a shopping square filled with local businesses selling art, photography, food, and drink.
If you’re anything like me and love filling your home with unique and artisan Scottish gifts, you will love shopping on Islay. Just be sure to leave some space in your suitcase to bring some pieces of Islay home with you!
In the afternoon you will go on your final whisky tour and tasting at Kilchoman Distillery. But first, enjoy lunch at the cafe located on-site at Kilchoman. You can also browse their gift shop, which has lots of lovely homewares, skincare, books and children’s toys.
Kilchoman is the only inland whisky distillery on Islay. They complete the entire whisky-making process on the farm, from the barley that is grown in their fields right up to the bottling process. Everything is done on Kilchoman land- which is why this distillery is so special.
They have a fantastic distillery tour where you can see their malting floor (a traditional way of drying barley) and they occasionally offer beach tastings at Machir Bar. I’ve done both the distillery tour and the beach tasting- and both were excellent experiences and a great way to finish off an Islay adventure.
FAMILY-FRIENDLY DISTILLERY
Kilchoman is a family-friendly distillery, so you can take your kids on the tour! Alex joined us for the tour when he was 18 months old and there were several other children of all ages on the tour too.
I hope you found my guide on Islay helpful- have I inspired you to visit the island?
MORE ISLAY INSPIRATION
👉 Watch my reel about our family trip to Islay
👉 Watch my reel about 5 things to do on Islay
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