Vatersay is known for its stunning beaches of white sand that merge into clear and turquoise water, reminiscent of the Carribean. It’s easy to see why many consider the beaches on Vatersay some of the most beautiful in Europe, and its combination of breathtaking scenery and dramatic history makes Vatersay one of the most interesting islands in the Outer Hebrides to explore.
Vatersay is the most southern-inhabited island of the Outer Hebrides. Just 3.5 miles in area, it is accessed via a causeway from the Isle of Barra; a lifeline for the island after many residents emigrated elsewhere due to its remoteness.
We spent a wonderful day on Vatersay during summer, exploring the island’s stunning beaches, thought-provoking history, and indulging ourselves with some of the best traybakes in Scotland. Wee Alex joined us too- he was eight months old at the time!
Here are seven things to do on Vatersay you cannot miss.
Enjoying the views from Vatersay
Visiting Barra too?
If you’re visiting Vatersay, you’ll probably be exploring the Isle of Barra as well. Make sure you read my guide on the best things to do on Barra for inspiration!
7 Things to do on Vatersay
1. Catalina Memorial
Wreckage from the RAF Catalina flying boat
The Catalina Memorial is what is left of a World War II aircraft that tragically crashed into the Vatersay hillside during a training exercise.
Islanders rushed to free the soldiers from the wreckage, but sadly three of the nine men died. A navigational error took them off course, and the aircraft got lost in low cloud. It then crashed into the side of a hill on Vatersay.
It’s a little astonishing that the wreckage sits here on the hillside after all this time, the wings clearly visible. The wreckage of the RAF Catalina flying boat was dragged further down the hill and placed on the lower slopes of Heishival Beg, where it lies now.
2. Hike the Vatersay Beaches Circuit
Walking the Vatersay Beaches Circuit
One of the best things to do on Vatersay is to walk the Vatersay Beaches Circuit– it encompasses many of the attractions in this article. I would rate it as a moderate walk; it has one steep 40-metre climb up a hill to a dun (Iron Age fort) but the rest of the walk is fairly flat.
It’s quite boggy in certain areas, so I recommend wearing proper hiking boots. It’s signposted for the majority of the walk, however, you will still need to know how to read a map as the path can be rough in sections. The map you need is OS Explorer 452.
On this walk, you will have fantastic views across to Sandray, Pabbay and Mingulay. Look out (or listen out) for a variety of birdlife, including guillemots, puffins, razorbills, gannets and the elusive corncrake.
For more information about this hike, the Vatersay Beaches Circuit guide on WalkHighlands is a good one to follow.
3. Traigh a Bhaigh and Traigh Shiar
Traigh a Bhaigh and Traigh Shiar
The two most famous beaches on Vatersay are separated by narrow machair, dunes and a road running through the middle of the island.
The east beach, Traigh a Bhaigh, is the more well-known of the two, and this is the location of the famous photograph of a rusted gate leading to the beach.
The west beach, Traigh Shiar, is equally as stunning, and you can climb the dun at the southern end of the beach for stunning views over the beach and the rest of the island.
You can also view the Annie Jane Memorial close to this beach, which is a monument that commemorates the 350 emigrant passengers who lost their lives when they were shipwrecked on the island in 1853.
They were sailing from Liverpool on a voyage to Quebec. After three days, the shop lost its mast, but the ship continued on, against many of the passengers’ wishes. The ship was caught up in storms and eventually wrecked on Vatersay.
The ship was dis-masted three days out but still attempted to carry on against the wishes of most of the passengers. Caught up in a number of storms the vessel was eventually wrecked on Vatersay.
The bodies of the victims were buried on Vatersay, but the location has sadly been lost. The remaining 102 passengers were met with scarce resources on Vatersay, and it took them around one month to return home.
Standing at the top of the dun
The Vatersay Raiders
Though raiding was commonplace at the time, The Vatersay Raiders made headlines during a time of political debate at Westminster about land reforms.
In 1908, a group of ten men from the islands of Barra and Mingulay were incarcerated for their steadfast refusal to vacate the island of Vatersay. They had come from impoverished conditions, and with nowhere to go, they raided the island, set up huts, and cultivated potatoes without permission- despite trying to reason with their landlord Lady Gordon of Cathcart.
What was happening in Vatersay was only a small part of what was happening across the Highlands and Islands. Due to financial difficulty, many clan chiefs were forced to evict families from their land in favour of sheep farming; previously it had been provided for clan members in exchange for men in arms should the clan chief ever require it. Many Scots were displaced across the world as a result of the Highland Clearances– as the government attempted to crack down on Highland culture that had led to the Jacobite Risings.
The Vatersay men were met with cheers by locals as they arrived in Edinburgh to face trial. They were imprisoned for almost two months, before being allowed to return to Vatersay after the government purchased the island for crofting. James Cameron describes Vatersay as “the theatre upon which was fought one of the keenest conflicts in the struggle for land reform in the Hebrides”.
There is an excellent book titled The Vatersay Raiders by Ben Buxton if you’re interested in learning more!
4. Piece of Cake Honesty Box
The Piece of Cake Honesty Box
One of my highlights of visiting Vatersay is the bright pink honesty box located in the village, filled with delicious home-baked treats that have most certainly expanded the waistbands of many of the islanders. It’s called the Piece of Cake Honesty Box, and it’s marked on Google Maps.
The Malteeser slice is hands-down the best I have ever tasted, and I often dream about this perfect sugary creation.
Make sure you take cash with you (there isn’t an option to pay by card). There is a plate with coins if you need change. You can check when the honesty box has been refilled on the Piece of Cake Instagram page.
5. Vatersay Hall Cafe
The Vatersay Hall Cafe is an excellent cafe run by the community that makes a BRILLIANT ham and cheese toastie. They also have homemade soups, sandwiches, paninis, scones, cakes, tea, coffee and soft drinks.
It’s the only place that serves hot meals on the island- so a visit here should be on your list. The official starting point of the Hebridean Way is across the road from the hall.
Sunshine on Vatersay
The hall is also used for community events, including concerts and ceilidhs. When you visit, be sure to ask if The Vatersay Boys are playing on their home turf during your time on the island. Reigning from Vatersay and Barra, the five-piece band features a unique blend of accordions, pipes, whistles and guitar. They’ve performed at Barrowlands in Glasgow, the Belladrum Festival in Inverness, and the Loopallu Festival in Ullapool.
Be sure to check the Vatersay Hall Cafe’s opening hours on their Facebook page before you visit.
6. Bagh A’Deas beach
Cows resting on Bagh A’Deas beach
Lesser known than Traigh Shiar (West Beach) and Traigh a Bhaigh (East Beach), Bagh A’Deas is usually quieter than the two, and known for its four-legged visitors- cows!
If you’re lucky you’ll have the chance to see the herd of cows that roam freely across the island relaxing on this beach.
This beach can be reached by walking southeast from the village cemetery. When visiting this beach, I recommend walking further along the coast to the deserted village of Eorisdale (more information below).
7. The Deserted Village of Eorisdale
You can still see the ruins of the village today
To the south-east of Vatersay, you will find the deserted village of Eorisdale (or Eòrasdail). It was abandoned in the 1970s when new housing became available in Vatersay village.
You can still see the reminders of the village, including a circular pen that was probably used to house animals.
Read more: Visiting the Outer Hebrides – The Perfect Guide To Get You Started
Recommended Books To Read About Vatersay
- The Vatersay Raiders by Ben Buxton – tells the story of ten men who raided the island, and played a large role in land reform in the Hebrides.
- Uist, Barra and Vatersay: Walks in the Western Isles by Peter Edwards – a great wee book about the best hikes on these islands.
Are you planning a trip to Vatersay? Is this list missing any attractions on the island? Leave a comment for me below!
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