A light breeze whipped my hair around my face, and the sunshine radiated from the waves as the ferry navigated through Oban Bay. West- we were heading west, and the cloudless blue sky revealed layers upon layers of Scotland: Lismore, Kerrera, Mull, Islay, and Jura. Finally, sparkling under the unobstructed sun, my destination appeared: the Isle of Colonsay, Jewel of the Hebrides.
Visiting the Isle of Colonsay has been on my bucket list for a long time, however, islands in closer proximity to the mainland distracted me, and when I finally stepped onto Colonsay’s shores, I had one thought in my mind: why has it taken me so long to visit?
Don’t let the slightly longer ferry journey deter you- Colonsay is well worth the journey, and the ferry journey with Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) is a wonderful experience in itself, with the opportunity to spot seals and dolphins from the deck.
The journey to Colonsay with CalMac; Breakfast and coffee onboard
11 Reasons To Visit Colonsay
1. It’s home to the most beautiful beaches in Scotland
With its vast stretch of custard-coloured sand and sparkling azure waters, Kiloran Bay now tops the list as my favourite beach in Scotland.
The beach is large enough that even when busy, you can easily find a pocket to yourself- but fortunately, Colonsay doesn’t have the huge stream of tourists that other islands can experience, so there’s a good chance you’ll have the beach to yourself.
Machrins Bay is also the perfect spot to watch the sunset. I witnessed one of the most beautiful sunsets I’ve experienced on Colonsay: coral and blush watercolours painted the sky when the sun dipped below the horizon.
Machrins Bay at sunset
2. It has four festivals each year
Colonsay hosts four festivals every year. They are: the Book Festival (April), the Festival of Spring (May), the Folk Music Festival (September) and the Autumn Food and Drink Festival (October).
I was lucky enough to visit during the Spring Festival, when the island held a variety of activities, including foraging. I went foraging for seaweed with expert forager Amy Rankine at Machrins Bay.
Foraging workshops take place at the Festival of Spring
Spring is a lovely time of year to visit Colonsay. The island is thrumming with life; gardens erupt in variations of colour, nourishing hungry insects and birds, and the sun slows its descent from the sky, allowing longer outdoor adventures.
For more information on the festivals and events being run on Colonsay, check the Visit Colonsay website.
4. It’s home to a stunning garden
Colonsay House and Gardens
Colonsay House and Gardens is famous for having one of the finest collections of rhododendrons in Scotland.
Due to Colonsay’s microclimate, it’s also home to an array of exotic trees and plants from all over the world. I enjoyed a mindful walk through the gardens, recognising some plants common in New Zealand and Australia. The early Georgian House stands overlooking the gardens and is privately owned.
Colonsay House is also home to a cafe with outdoor seating nestled into the garden. They serve lunch and afternoon tea, and delicious home baking.
An interesting feature you’ll stumble across in the garden is the lens from the Rhubhal lighthouse on Islay!
Colonsay House and Gardens; Ruisg Buidhe, an 8th-century carved cross
I was also fascinated to discover an 8th-century Early Christian carved cross, Ruisg Buidhe. At just over 30 cm tall, the carving is in remarkable condition, and features a carved face (perhaps Jesus or God) at the head of a cross, with a fish tail.
Colonsay House and Gardens are open on Tuesdays and Thursdays from April to October.
5. You’ll taste delicious food and drink
Dinner and cocktails at The Pantry
Colonsay is home to two brilliant restaurants and a cafe, and if you’re staying here for at least two nights, you’ll be able to enjoy dinner at both restaurants!
The Pantry is an award-winning, family-owned and run cafe, bar and seafood restaurant serving locally sourced produce. The Pantry is located 200 yards from the pier, with views across to Jura. I enjoyed a fish supper for dinner one evening, and it was exceptional. They also have seafood nights on Wednesdays and Saturdays. They have vegan and vegetarian options.
If you’re looking to have a more formal restaurant meal, The Colonsay Hotel has a lovely restaurant with a large garden and sea views. It also has a bar. I had the lamb shank followed by cranachan for dessert, and the food was excellent!
Dinner at The Colonsay Hotel
Colonsay is also home to the multi-award-winning Colonsay Gin! Book a tour of Colonsay Distillery (formerly Wild Thyme Spirits) to meet the distillers and learn about the gin-making process. Eileen and Finlay make their gin in their purpose-built garage, making it one of the most unique distillery tours I’ve experienced! At the end of your tour, you get the opportunity to taste their variety of gins.
Read more: 10 things to do on the Isle of Coll
The Isle of Colonsay Distillery
If you’re staying in self-catering accommodation, call into Colonsay Smokery to pick up some locally smoked salmon. All salmon is filleted, cured and smoked the old-fashioned way- by hand!
Call into Colonsay House and Gardens on a Tuesday or a Thursday and enjoy lunch in the cafe. They serve soup and sandwiches, as well as delicious home baking!
A buzz about Colonsay
Did you know Colonsay is home to a protected species of bees? You can purchase jars of honey from The Pantry.
6. It’s great for outdoor adventures
If you’re active and love the outdoors, Colonsay offers a range of activities. Hike to Colonsay’s highest point, Carnan Eoin, for aerial views across Kiloran Bay and the rest of the island, or bag the 22 MacPhies (including one on Oronsay), which is the name for all the hills with a summit of at least 300ft (91 metres).
You can hire a bike from Colonsay Bikes and Boards and cycle around the island- it’s mostly flat with small hills. You can also hire a SUP and a wetsuit and go for a paddle! Best of all, they can deliver your bike or board to your accommodation!
I cycled from my accommodation at Bothy Fada to the southern end of Kiloran Bay, which was an easy, 25-minute return cycle.
7. You’ll pick up some unique island-made gifts
The Old Waiting Room Gallery and the Colonsay Bookshop
The Old Waiting Room Gallery is located next to the ferry terminal in Scalasaig and is where you’ll find a treasure trove of unique gifts and art. You can buy owner Trini’s beautiful shell art, as well as a range of prints and paintings made by residents and visiting artists.
The Colonsay Bookshop, also in Scalasaig, is a must-visit for book lovers. The small bookshop sells a range of books about Colonsay and the islands, as well as fiction, children’s books, and second-hand books.
8. It’s great for wild swimming
Kiloran Bay
Machrins Bay is an excellent beach for a spot of wild swimming; the water is crystal clear and the bay is well-sheltered.
You can also swim at Kiloran Bay.
9. You can walk to another island: Oronsay
The Isle of Oronsay is accessible on foot at low tide, and many visitors take the journey across to visit the 14th-century priory ruin. Outside the priory, there are 30 carved tombstones dating from the 15th and 16th centuries.
St Columba is also said to have landed on Oronsay on his way to Iona in the 6th century.
Oronsay’s history dates back even further than this, with at least five middens (rubbish pits) discovered that date back to the Mesolithic Period, approximately 5,000 to 7,000 years ago.
To see if a crossing to Oronsay is possible, check the tide information at the post office. It’s best to plan a visit to Oronsay during the New Moon or Full Moon.
10. History is hiding in plain sight
Tools from the Mesolithic Period, dating back 8,000 years ago have been found at Kiloran Bay, along with a Viking boat grave, and Bronze Age remains, making Colonsay an interesting island for those with an interest in archaeology.
To find the locations for these archaeological hidden gems, have a look at the OS Pathfinder map of Colonsay, or ask a local where you can find them!
11. You will *actually* unwind
There is a good balance of things to see and do on Colonsay, enough to keep you busy without being overwhelming if you only have a day or two to visit. I suggest spending at least two nights on the island so you can visit all of the attractions, but have time to relax into island time and listen for the rasp of the corn crake, and watch the waves crash into the creamy sand of Kiloran Bay.
In two days, I explored the majority of the island but still had enough downtime to relax and just be. There’s something about Colonsay that actively encourages you to reconnect!
Tips for visiting Colonsay
Views from the ferry journey with Calmac
How to get to the Isle of Colonsay
The best way to get to Colonsay is with CalMac Ferries. These are the routes to Colonsay:
Oban ➡️ Colonsay: runs daily in summer (2 hours, 20 minutes)
Islay ➡️ Colonsay: runs on a Wed + Sat (70 minutes)
⏰View the CalMac timetable.
The journey on the ferry is stunning- as you depart Oban, the view looking back towards the town is a great photo opportunity. You also pass many islands in the Inner Hebrides, including Mull, Jura and Islay. You can purchase meals onboard at the Mariners cafeteria, and there’s a coffee cabin where you can buy snacks and gifts from the wee shop. There’s even a small play area for kids and a dog-friendly seating area. I love relaxing on the ferry with a book, coffee and a hot meal (the steak pie is my favourite). Click here to see the menu and learn more about the onboard experience when sailing with CalMac.
Tip #1: Spend some time exploring Oban
View of Oban from the CalMac ferry
If you are getting the ferry to Colonsay from Oban, I recommend arriving in Oban at least one day earlier so you can spend some time exploring the Gateway to the Isles. I did exactly this when I visited Colonsay, and spent a night at The Royal Hotel, which offers comfortable accommodation and is just a 5-minute walk to the ferry terminal! I had an excellent dinner at Cuan Mor, which has lovely views of Oban Bay.
Tip #2: Take a day trip from Islay
If you’re visiting Islay first, it’s easy to do a day trip over to Colonsay. The Calmac ferry departs Port Askaig and takes just 70 minutes to reach Colonsay. The ferry only runs on a Wednesday and a Saturday, so make sure you plan your island-hopping well.
Planning to visit Colonsay from Islay? Read my 5-day Islay itinerary
Tip #3: Accommodation on Colonsay
Bothy Fada
Bothy Fada (left) and Cuan An Iar Colonsay Camping
Colonsay has a variety of accommodation to suit everyone- here are my recommendations:
- Bothy Fada – This is where I stayed, and I adored it here! Bothy Fada is a self-contained, modern bothy with a small kitchen and private bathroom. It’s perfect for a solo traveller or a couple. Bothy Fada is located next to the Backpackers Lodge.
- Backpackers Lodge – The Backpackers Lodge offers affordable accommodation on Colonsay. Sleeps up to 18 people in three separate buildings.
- Cuan An Iar Colonsay Camping – This campsite just opened in April, and it’s located near Machrins Bay, the best place on the island to watch the sunset. Pitch a tent or stay in the glamping bell tent. There are two toilets and a South-African style shower.
- The Colonsay Hotel – Located in Scalasaig, this is the only hotel on the island. They have a restaurant and a bar.
Tip #4: Check opening times for restaurants and attractions
The cafe at Colonsay House and Gardens
Be sure to check opening dates and times for everything you plan to do. In the Hebrides, it’s common for businesses to close certain days of the week or to have different opening hours day-to-day.
You may even need to plan your travel dates around opening hours around the island, for example, Colonsay House and Gardens are only open on Tuesdays and Thursdays from April to October.
It’s also a good idea to make reservations if you plan to eat at The Pantry or The Colonsay Hotel.
Do you have any questions about visiting Colonsay? Leave me a comment and I’ll try to help!
My trip to Colonsay was sponsored by Caledonian MacBrayne and Wild About Argyll– the destination management organisation for Argyll and the Isles. All words and opinions are my own.
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