Who hasn’t dreamed of visiting the magical Isle of Skye?
This Scottish island almost always makes the bucket list when planning a vacation to Scotland, and because it’s popular, this can mean it gets quite busy.
I like to avoid the crowd, so when the opportunity came up to spend a weekend in the Isle of Skye in November, I grasped it firmly with both hands.
There is something especially comforting about rising early to go for a hike or exploring, and returning to your accommodation to make a home-cooked meal or venturing to the local pub for a warm meal washed down with a dram. This is why I enjoy Scotland in the shoulder season.
Contrary to what many will say about the Scottish weather, I think the clouds and mist add to the ambiance. Just make sure you pack the right clothing for Scottish weather!
Covid-19 notice: While I’ve tried my best to keep this article updated with the latest information, due to the pandemic some attractions and places mentioned in this article may be closed. Be sure to plan ahead, check what’s open before you visit and read my Covid-19 Scotland guide for more information on travel in Scotland.
This is a sponsored article, however all opinions are entirely my own (as always). This article may contain links to products and services that I love. I may earn a small commission at no cost to you. All photos by Kathi Kamleitner and Yvette Webster.
I decided to road trip to the Isle of Skye from Edinburgh, picking up my adventure pal Kathi from Watch Me See in Glasgow on the way. We recently spent a girls hiking weekend in Rannoch Moor at the Loch Ossian Youth Hostel and we were keen for another adventure in Scotland.
This time we stayed at the Portree Youth Hostel, and were spoiled with sunshine for the entire weekend. We managed to drive around the majority of the island during our two-day stay.
We spent one day driving to the Isle of Skye, taking our time visiting many attractions along the way, and then spent two days on the island. I suggest you spend a minimum of two days on the Isle of Skye.
You just can’t experience the island in one day, especially if you’re driving from Edinburgh, Inverness, or Glasgow. Trust me on this one.
In my self-drive Isle of Skye 2 day itinerary I’ve included all the must-sees plus some hidden gems that not many people know to visit. I’ve also included information on driving and car hire, and three different driving routes you can take from Edinburgh, and all the places you can stop off at along the way.
This itinerary is perfect for anyone visiting Skye and planning on spending two full days or longer on the island.
I’ll also prove that a trip to the Isle of Skye need not be pricey; because it is such a popular destination, a trip to Skye isn’t often cheap. However, by staying at the Portree Youth Hostel and cooking your own meals in their self-catering kitchen, a trip to Skye is achievable even if you have a modest budget.
You can also check out the video below to see our trip visually:
When is the best time to visit the Isle of Skye?
The Isle of Skye is an island that unfortunately suffers from overtourism during summer.
In August 2019, there were a series of images circulating on social media that showed just how busy the Isle of Skye can get during the summer.
The images showed backed-up traffic in both the popular tourist destinations and the more remote parts of Skye. The amount of foot traffic places a lot of strain on the land, locals and tourists.
Why does this happen?
The majority of roads on the Isle of Skye are single track- many of them being shingle roads. You’ll have to drive very slowly due to the shingle roads, and if traffic is backed up, you may be waiting a while until the traffic clears!
My best advice is to avoid visiting the Isle of Skye during the peak tourist months of June, July and August.
So when is the best time to visit the Isle of Skye? I personally recommend April, May, and late September to November. You’re more likely to avoid the crowds of tourists and backed up traffic this way. Plus the weather is still pretty nice!
Please note some attractions close from October-March. Keep this in mind while planning your trip.
We visited in November, so as you’ll see, we still did a lot!
✨ On a budget? Grab my Scotland Bucket List Planner
✨ Organising a big trip? Grab my Ultimate Scotland Planner
✨ Want to tick off all the must-sees? Grab my Must-See Scotland Essential Travel Planners
✨ Have a question about travelling around Scotland? Join my Facebook groups Scotland Travel Tips and Scotland Travel Tips for Locals
✨ Love podcasts? Listen to my Scotland podcast Life in Scotland
Driving on the Isle of Skye
For car hire, I always compare prices with Auto Europe.
Note: you will have to search ‘Great Britain’ for car hire in Scotland.
The Isle of Skye is one of the areas in Scotland I recommend you self-drive, especially in the shoulder season when there is less traffic. There was virtually no traffic on the island during our trip, which made navigating the narrow single-lane country roads far easier.
While the Isle of Skye is an island, access is easily obtained by the bridge connecting the island to the mainland, so there’s no need to take a ferry!
Here are some tips for driving around the Isle of Skye:
- In Scotland we drive on the left side of the road.
- Be mindful of others on the road, especially when driving on single-track roads. Always slow down before negotiating a blind corner. My tip is to drive at a speed you could easily stop at if someone is flying around a corner at speed.
- Use the passing places. Whoever is closest to a passing place should theoretically be the one to pull over.
- If you’re a slow driver and there is traffic backed up behind you, use a passing place to pull into to let traffic pass.
- There are farm animals such as sheep and Highland Cows that could be grazing next to or even crossing the road. Be mindful of this.
- Do not use passing places to stop for photos if the island is busy. You’ll find you’ll block up traffic pretty quickly if you do!
Read More: 50 Travel Tips for Scotland
Notable stops from Edinburgh to Isle of Skye by car
There are several options when driving from Edinburgh to Isle of Skye by car, but I will discuss the three the most popular:
- via Glasgow and the Trossachs National Park
- via Stirling and the Trossachs National Park
- via Perth and the Cairngorms National Park
It is good to bear in mind if you are driving to the Isle of Skye in autumn or winter the sunshine hours are a lot shorter. During these months the sun will rise around 8 am and set around 4 pm.
Make sure you time your drive right- leave as early as you can so you have the best chance of seeing everything.
1. Via Glasgow and The Trossachs National Park (6 hours, 8 minutes)
This is the route we drove on the way to Skye, seeing as Kathi lives in Glasgow and I needed to pick her up. This is the longest option, but includes plenty of Scotland must-see landmarks. These include:
The bonnie Loch Lomond is the largest loch in the UK by surface area and forms part of the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. It is one of Scotland’s premier boating and watersports venues, with many activities such as kayaking, paddle boarding, and water skiing on offer. The village of Luss is also worth exploring, and they have a couple of great gift shops with local and unique items for sale.
There is a saying that you can’t come to Scotland and not visit Glen Coe! It was recently voted the most romantic glen in Scotland; it’s easy to see why with its towering munros (such as Buachaille Etive Mor and The Three Sisters) and elegant waterfalls. As well as one of the best scenic drives in Scotland, Glen Coe has some fantastic hiking options, including hiking to The Lost Valley and the Glencoe Lochan Trail.
Eilean Donan Castle
You’ll pass Scotland’s most photographed castle no matter which route you take- but it definitely worth stopping for! Eilean Donan Castle sits on top of a tidal island, and is connected to the mainland by a bridge. The present castle, built in the 13th century, was once the seat of the Macraes. Try and catch it for sunset and marvel at how the colours reflect off the water.
2. Via Stirling and Crianlarich (5 hours, 51 minutes)
This is the best route to take to drive to the Isle of Skye from Edinburgh. You will still soak up the magnificent views of the Trossachs National Park and Glencoe, as well as many more attractions, including:
Stirling Castle & the Wallace Monument
It’s hard not to spot Stirling Castle, perched on top of a large crag overlooking the countryside. Stirling Castle is one of the most important castles in Scottish history; it was said that whoever held Stirling Castle, held Scotland. Don’t forget to look out for the Wallace Monument which commemorates Scottish legend William Wallace and his remarkable victory at the Battle of Stirling Bridge.
The Kelpies are the largest equine sculptures in the world! You will drive past them on the M9 after you pass by Grangemouth. Keep an eye out for them on your left.
The Falkirk Wheel is a rotating boat lift that connects the Forth and Clyde Canal with the Union Canal. It’s quite spectacular, and they have a huge visitors centre.
3. Via the Cairngorms National Park (5 hours, 10 minutes)
This is the quickest option, although the least picturesque, until you reach the north-west highlands.
The Forth Bridge makes up one of the three bridges connecting Edinburgh to Fife. It is also a World Heritage site. The story of how it was built is truly fascinating. You will drive over the Queensferry Crossing when leaving Edinburgh, and the Forth Bridge will be on your right.
Dunfermline Abbey is a church located in Dunfermline, Fife. It is over 1000 years old, and the body of the legendary King Robert the Bruce is buried here.
You could also visit the impressive ancestral home of the Clan Murray, which was built in the 15th century.
There is an abundance of things to see and do in Perth but one of my personal favourite things to do is walking up Kinnoull Hill. If it’s raining you could also check out The Black Watch Museum or Scone Palace– where Scotland’s Kings were once crowned.
Portree Youth Hostel: The Hostel on the Loch [A Review]
Portree is the largest town on the Isle of Skye and situated on its eastern coast. Once you cross the bridge into Skye, it takes just under an hour to reach Portree by car.
The town has full amenities, including a Co-Op which is a short walk from the hostel.
We stayed at the Portree Youth Hostel, run by the non-profit charity, Hostelling Scotland. Our room was a private twin room with an en suite. I have stayed in over 30 hostels throughout Scotland (ten of these being Hostelling Scotland hostels), so I know the system here pretty well- and this hostel was exactly what I expected- warm and cosy with a comfortable bed that assured I was well-rested and prepared for the days’ activities!
The self-catering kitchen is modern, stocked with everything you need to cook a delicious warm meal after a day in the mountains.
The free continental breakfast had a wide-variety of options: cereals, toast, yogurt, fruit, croissants and meats.
The abundance of tea options meant we were able to stay well-hydrated before heading out into the cool November air that morning, and warming up in the lounge when we returned in the evenings.
Read: How to spend a remote weekend hiking in the Scottish Highlands
My favourite thing about Portree Youth Hostel had to be the view out to Loch Portree- it’s truly splendid!
>> Click here to book the Portree Youth Hostel
Isle Of Skye 2 Day Itinerary [Self-Drive]
My Isle of Skye driving itinerary covers the popular attractions in Skye, as well as those off the beaten path.
This itinerary is suited for those of a moderate level of fitness if you are wanting to attempt the hikes. Some of the hikes I have listed are optional, as many of the sites can be seen from the side of the road.
You may also skip certain parts of the itinerary if you’re short on time, or prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.
Isle of Skye Driving Itinerary Day 1: Trotternish & North-West Skye
Starting point: Portree Youth Hostel
Miles/Kilometres: 100 miles / 160 kilometres
Drive time: 3 hours, 33 minutes
Stop #1: Old Man of Storr
Chances are, if you’ve done your research on the Isle of Skye you’ll come across images of this iconic landmark. Leaving Portree Youth Hostel and heading north, we passed the Old Man of Storr just before dawn. Our goal was to hike The Quiraing for sunrise, however there is also the option to hike up to the Old Man of Storr instead.
Be mindful of loose rocks and rock falls- you will need good quality hiking boots to attempt these hikes.
Allow 1.5 – 5 hours for each of these hikes. However if hiking isn’t your thing, you can spot the Old Man of Storr from the road. The Old Man of Storr can also be seen from The Lump in Portree if you look carefully.
Stop #2: The Quiraing
The Quiraing is one of the most beautiful places in Scotland. We hiked the hill circuit for sunrise, which is one of my most memorable experiences in Scotland to date!
As soon as the sun crept over the horizon the colours of the landscape came to life. The perfect place to watch the sunrise is just before you reach the Needle, a jagged 120-foot (37 m) rock formation.
Just like the Old Man of Storr, be mindful of rock falls and loose rocks. The Prison is also an interesting place to explore, which sits just in front of the Needle.
There is a car park at the start of the hike. Allow 3-4 hours to hike the circuit.
Stop #3: Fairy Glen
The Fairy Glen is an otherworldly experience; the small round hills and spiral circles of carefully placed stones give this glen a magical feeling and interesting spot to take photos. There is a short and easy hike to reach the Fairy Glen. Allow at least one hour to explore this area.
Stop #4: Dunvegan Castle
Once the stronghold of Clan MaCleod, Dunvegan Castle is an impressive castle that is still occupied to this day! It is one of the grandest castles in the Hebrides and rich in fairy lore.
Dunvegan Castle is home to the Am Bratach Sith (The Fairy Flag of Dunvegan)- a flag that was believed to be gifted to the clan by the faeries sometime during the 4th century AD. Legend has it that this sacred clan banner has miraculous powers, and when it was carried into battle, the clan would be victorious.
Dunvegan Castle and Gardens is closed for the winter between October and March, but the castle can still be marvelled from a distance across Loch Dunvegan.
>> Want more island inspiration? Check out my Islay itinerary
Stop #5: Neist Point Lighthouse
Following one-way country lanes, you will eventually reach the plunging coastline and one of Scotland’s most famous lighthouses: Neist Point.
Found on the north-western tip of Skye, there is a short walk to reach the lighthouse itself. This walk is classed as short in length, but medium in difficulty due to the steepness of the path in places.
From Neist Point Lighthouse you will drive via the southern route back to Portree.
How to spend your evening
There is a Co-Op grocery store in Portree you can buy fruit and veg from for a home-cooked meal using the self-catering kitchen at Portree Youth Hostel. There are also many traditional Scottish restaurants and pubs a few minutes walk from the hostel.
Want to tick another island off your bucket list? The Isle of Arran is a great wee island with plenty to see and do.
Isle of Skye Driving Itinerary Day 2: The Sleat Peninsula
Starting point: Portree Youth Hostel
Miles/Kilometres: 100 miles / 160 kilometres
Drive time: 3 hours, 5 minutes
Day two of my Isle of Skye itinerary is more off the beaten track. The Sleat Peninsula is a less visited area in Skye, but after reading about what south-west Skye had to offer we decided we couldn’t miss this area of the island.
Stop #1: Exploring Portree
You’ll start day two on foot by exploring Portree. Walk around The Lump and climb the Apothecary’s Tower for views of the town all the way to the Old Man of Storr. Follow the path back into the town and marvel at the colourful houses along Portree harbour, before heading to the south-west of the island!
Stop #2: Talisker Whisky Distillery
If you’re a whisky fan, you’ll love the Talisker Whisky Distillery, which produces some of the best island whisky in Scotland! Island whisky is known for being a stronger whisky, with smokier notes.
The Talisker Distillery is set on the shores of Loch Harport with dramatic views of the Cuillins. Classic tours are available all year round while tasting tours are available Monday to Friday from April-October.
Stop #3: Fairy Pools
The Fairy Pools is one of the most common attractions on the Isle of Skye: beautiful rock pools of clear spring water fed by a series of waterfalls from the Cuillin Mountains. It can get very busy here during the summer when tourism peaks, so it is recommended you arrive early to avoid missing out.
It is a relatively short 2.4 kilometre walk to reach the pools from the car park (which is paid parking).
Many visitors to the pools will brave the freezing Scottish water to go wild-swimming!
Stop #4: Dunscaith Castle
Dunscaith castle is a beautiful ruin that was built and occupied by Clan MacLeod and at times, by Clan MacDonald. The castle is accessed by a short 10 minute walk from the roadside.
The majority of the castle has disintegrated, so accessing it can be difficult and great care should be taken. Climbing the hill next to the castle offers breathtaking views of the Inner Hebrides.
After visiting the castle, continue straight along the road to finish the loop around the Sleat Peninsula.
There you have it- it is completely doable to cover the majority of the Isle of Skye in only 2 days, soaking up both the popular destinations as well as the more hidden ones. A trip to the Isle of Skye also doesn’t need to break the bank; the Portree Youth Hostel offers affordable and comfortable accommodation, and you can cook your own meals using the self-catering facilities!
Have you tried this itinerary? I’d love to know- leave a comment!
Wednesday 2nd of October 2019
Hi your blog post on your trip around Skye is so helpful! We're heading up in two weeks and I just wondered if you could help me with car camping. Were going to sleep in the van (like a VW transporter but ours is Japanese.) Is there many places we would get away with parking up and sleeping in between fort William and Skye? I've never been that far up so I'm unsure :) Thanks so much! <3
Thursday 13th of December 2018
We also stayed in Portree Youth hostel. It was brilliant. Did a one tour with Tour Skye which took in many of the popular sights. We travelled on a ScotRail Grand Tour of Scotland ticket which for £89 included trains buses and ferries. No need for a car. Fab time had by all. Enjoy ?
Friday 14th of December 2018
Tours are another fantastic way of seeing Skye especially if you're short on time or don't want to drive. I wanted to test out my new car, and I liked that we could stop off at some of the more off-beat spots such as Dunscaith castle. You really can't go wrong with Skye however- it's just that beautiful!
Thursday 13th of December 2018
Nice stuff - I'd have to take a week at least (incapable of speed ! ?)
Friday 14th of December 2018
It's amazing what you can get done in just 2 days on Skye, but a week would be the dream!
Wednesday 12th of December 2018
Absolutely brilliant adventure. Makes me want to go back to Skye.
Wednesday 12th of December 2018
It is certainly a place you can visit over and over!