Coast, cuisine and calm – these were the themes of our family trip to this tiny island off the west coast of Scotland. Located between the Isle of Mull and the Outer Hebrides, Coll is truly the hidden gem of the Hebrides. Every island I’ve visited in Scotland has been different and unique, and if I could summarise Coll, I would describe it as the perfect place to breathe. The perfect location for an exhausted couple with a 4-month-old!
After surviving the first few months with a newborn, I decided that it was time to start planning an island adventure with the Haggis and Alex.
Because we were travelling with a newborn, we didn’t want a full-on adventure; something more laid-back with good food, comfortable lodging, and relaxed activities appealed to us, and the Isle of Coll is the perfect island to escape to for some R&R.
The fact that there isn’t a long list of things to do on the Isle of Coll appealed to the Haggis and me. That, and the award-winning Coll Hotel, famous for its restaurant and an epic winter deal we could not turn down!
So if you’re looking for an island devoid of crowds and awash with nature, Coll is your answer.
>> Check out my reel of our trip to the Isle of Coll 👇
The Isle of Coll: A Place To Breathe
The Isle of Coll is known for its starry night skies, gorgeous white sandy beaches, dunes, and the elusive corncrake- a protected bird in Scotland.
The people of Coll are known as Collachs. They’re very friendly, and as Mairi Hedderwick says ”it takes a long time for the kettle to boil.”
Rugged and wild, the Isle of Coll is a relatively flat island, with its highest point, Ben Hogh, at just 106 metres (348 ft).
The east of Coll is made up of weathered rock, grass and heather. The southwest features rock with quartz and marble, and high sand dunes and machair make up the west coast, with raised beaches around Arnabost.
Many folk combine a trip to Coll with Tiree, a neighbouring island just below Coll. In fact, you’ll often hear the two islands mentioned together in travel guides since they are so close to one another. There are daily ferries that run between the two islands, which take 55 minutes.
Coll is the quieter, more relaxed island, offering the opportunity to really slow down and immerse yourself in nature. Tiree has more opportunities for thrill-seekers, with much more to see and do on the island. The two islands are like yin and yang: they complement each other, yet offer two vastly different experiences.
If you want to slow down, visit Coll. If you want a bit more action, Tiree is your best bet. Or why not experience visiting both?
The History Of Coll
Robert the Bruce gifted Coll to Angus Og of Islay, King of the Isles, in the early 14th century. He was probably responsible for the building of Breachacha Castle on the island.
The island was also the seat of the Macleans of Coll. The 13th chief, Hector Maclean, managed to keep his clansmen out of the Jacobite Rebellion of 1745. He took two Campbell wives (at different times) but didn’t produce an heir. Despite taking two Campbell wives, Maclean vowed he would never let a Campbell move onto the island when the Duke of Argyll tried to lease some land on Coll!
How To Get To The Isle Of Coll
There are two ways to reach the Isle of Coll: by ferry or by air.
Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) run a ferry service from Oban to Coll several times a week. It’s also possible to get a ferry from Tiree to Coll on certain dates.
While the ferry allows you to take your car, you honestly don’t need it. The island is small and flat, making it easy to cycle around, and you can hire a bike on the island or bring your own.
I recommend purchasing your ferry tickets in advance, at the same time you are booking your accommodation or as soon as the timetable is released.
Need advice on how to reach Oban by public transport? There is more information on how to reach Oban by public transport to match up with the ferry service on the CalMac website.
Flights with Hebridean Air Services operate twice a week from Oban, on a Wednesday and a Thursday. Prices start from £32.50 per adult, one-way.
Where to stay: Coll Hotel
The Coll Hotel is an award-winning hotel and is renowned for its restaurant and modern, comfortable rooms. It’s the only hotel and pub on the island, located in the main village on Coll, Arinagour. It’s a short walk from the ferry, so it’s the perfect place to base yourself.
Foodies will be happy to know that much of their menu is sourced locally.
Lobster, crab, langoustine and squat lobster on their menu are creel caught (a more sustainable fishing method) off Coll by local fishing boats and then delivered straight to the kitchen door. Hand-dived scallops and smoked fish come from the Isle of Mull.
Chutney, marmalade, pickles and jam are made by Coll local, Margaret, and salad ingredients and vegetables are also grown on the island.
The Haggis and I thoroughly enjoyed every plate that was put before us. Highlights for me included the sirloin steak and the cranachan.
The months between October and March are a great time to visit if you’re on a budget; they have excellent winter deals that include accommodation, breakfast and dinner from just £145 per night. They also have deals for Hogmanay!
10 Things To Do On Coll
1. Explore the beaches
Coll stands out for its pristine white sandy beaches and dune exploring, and if you do one activity on the island, visiting its beaches is a must!
The best beaches I recommend exploring include Cliad Beach, Traigh Feall Beach, Chrossapol Beach, and Breacachadh Beach.
Cliad Beach is a slice of paradise tucked away in a sheltered bay on the west coast of the island. It has lovely views across to the Outer Hebrides, but the star attraction is the seals that sometimes sunbathe on the beach. Park at the Golf Course, and it’s a 15-minute walk, passing through dunes to reach the bay.
Traigh Feall Beach in the south-west is another beach well worth exploring. It’s great for surfing and boogie boarding.
Chrossapol Beach in the south is the largest beach on the island and great for a stroll, and Breacachadh Beach is the safest for swimming and watersports.
2. Listen for the call of the corncrake
In the UK, the corncrake is classified on the Red List as a species of high conservation concern due to significant declines in its population.
While it can be difficult to spot a corncrake (their habitat is in long grass), they have a distinctive call- so listen out for a rasping sound similar to the teeth of a wooden comb being stroked. You can also use the app Merlin Bird ID to help identify corncrakes.
The best place to find corncrakes is the RSPB Centre at Totronald.
3. Cycle to Sorisdale
The journey from Arinagour to Sorisdale, on the north of Coll, offers plenty of side trips to hidden beaches. But it also offers a glimpse into the challenges of island life. On this route, you’ll see many abandoned buildings on your journey north.
This route is popular with cyclists, but be sure to let any traffic pass safely as the road is narrow and bumpy at times.
Sorisdale is a former fishing and crofting village that was almost deserted; however, some of the buildings have been restored.
One of the highlights at the north end of Coll is the lovely horseshoe-shaped white-sandy bay. Click here for walking instructions.
4. Go stargazing
Coll is a designated Dark Sky Island due to its lack of light pollution. On a clear night, you can see the Milky Way!
There are no street lights in Arinagour, so it’s a good idea to take a torch if you’re wandering around at night.
Remember to pack your camera and tripod to capture the starry sky!
5. See the Breachacha Castles
There are two castles on Coll: Old Breachacha Castle, a 15th-century tower house (now a ruin), and the new Breachacha Castle, built in the 1750s. Both castles are located on the shore of Loch Breachacha. They’re privately owned, so you cannot go inside them, but you can see them from the roadside.
They were once the seat of the Macleans of Coll, until the island was sold in 1856. The newer castle remained the seat of the Lairds of Coll until 1944.
During the late 18th century, Samuel Johnson (the great English encyclopedist) and his biographer James Boswell stayed at the new castle during their tour of the Hebrides.
You can stay at the new Breachacha Castle – it sleeps up to 14 guests.
Did you know? The island of Struay in the famous children’s book series by Mairi Hedderwick starring Katie Morag is based on the Isle of Coll.
6. Enjoy the view from Ben Hogh
For a magical view across the whole island, a walk to the highest point on the island, Ben Hogh, is a must. At just over 100 metres, it’s a fairly easy walk and takes one hour.
This guide on WalkHighlands is a good one to follow.
7. See the Iron Age fort, Dun Morbhaidh
Cast your mind back around 2000 years ago and explore the remains of Dun Morbhaidh– an Iron Age fort.
The fort is located in the north-west of the island, and when it was excavated in the 1970s, remains of midden material and several sherds of pottery bearing deer carvings were discovered. You can see the pottery on display at the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh!
Ordnance Survey (OS) National Grid Reference: NM 2345 6331
8. Look for basking sharks
Coll is one of the best places to see basking sharks, the second-largest fish in the world. The best time to see them is during the summer months, and you can sometimes see them from the shore.
Basking Shark Scotland has one-day tours where you can even swim with them!
9. Play a round of golf
Coll Golf Course is a wee nine-hole course on farmland near Cliad Beach. It’s open from June 1st until the end of August.
Fun fact: since there is no clubhouse, steward, or starter, the golf club relies on an honesty system!
You can pay for your round at the Coll Hotel in an honesty jar before you play.
If you need clubs, there are two sets (which can be subdivided) in the shed near the first tee, which you can borrow in exchange for a donation to the club.
10. Nothing…
I saw this listed as an activity on the Isle of Coll tourism website, and it made me giggle- so I had to include it here.
If you want to go somewhere to truly switch off, Coll is a wonderful place to do this. Bring a book, some pencils and a canvas, binoculars – or simply go for a long walk around the island.
In this hectic world, we don’t get the opportunity to do ”nothing” often enough!
Tips for Visiting the Isle of Coll
- Arinagour is the main village on Coll. Here you’ll find all of Coll’s shops, a post office, fuel pumps, the Community Centre (An Cridhe), food and drink, and Coll’s only active church.
- There is no public transport on Coll. Most visitors will make their way around the island on foot, by bike, or by hitchhiking!
- You can bring your bike across on the ferry, or rent an e-bike from the community centre. You can rent regular bikes from the Post Office.
- You can take a car across on the ferry to Coll – this is what we did on our first trip to Coll because Alex was far too young to ride on the back of a bike. Bringing a car across on the ferry is much more expensive than travelling as foot passengers, however!
- The roads on Coll are single-track, so make sure you know how to use passing places before you visit.
- There is an electric car charging point at Coll Community Centre.
- You can find emergency numbers and other useful points of contact on the Visit Coll website.
What To Pack When You Visit Coll
- Nikon Prostaff P7 Binoculars – essential for spotting wildlife
- A book – you’ll have plenty of opportunities to unwind
- A swimsuit – if you’re into wild swimming, a dip in the cool waters might be just your thing.
- I’ve also written a comprehensive Scotland Packing List you’ll find useful when packing.
What Our Trip Cost Us
- Ferry (return tickets for 2 adults, under 5s are free) – £56.80
- Accommodation in Oban (2 adults + 1 infant) – £100 per night
- Accommodation at Coll Hotel (Winter Deal for 2 adults + 1 infant, includes breakfast and 3-course dinner) – £170 per night
Books About Coll I Recommend
- The Last Laird of Coll by Mairi Hedderwick
- The Katie Morag children’s book series by Mairi Hedderwick
- The Scottish Islands: The Bestselling Guide to Every Scottish Island by Hamish Haswell-Smith
- An Eye On The Hebrides by Mairi Hedderwick
- Scottish Island Bagging by Helen and Paul Webster
Have I inspired you to visit the Isle of Coll? Let me know in the comments if you found this guide useful!
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