When summer gives way to autumn and the weather turns ‘dreich’, as the Scots like to say, there’s no place I’d rather be than tucked away on a wild, rugged Scottish island.
I adore this time of year; after a busy summer of juggling a toddler, work and general life responsibilities, I was in dire need of a weekend to focus purely on myself.
I spent a blissful three days on Jura: an island home to more deer than people (20 to 1!), and a place that defines ‘wilderness’.
The island is famous for its whisky, the three conical Paps of Jura, and the remote farmhouse where George Orwell penned his novel, 1984.
However, as I was about to discover, it’s the perfect place to go to nourish your soul.
As I stepped onto the ferry, I let go of the feeling of being pushed and pulled in every direction, the never-ending to-do list, and the constant demands of motherhood.
The flurry of emails sat unopened in my inbox, and nursing a coffee, I watched as the mainland grew smaller as we crept towards what Orwell described as ‘’an extremely un-get-atable place.’’
This blog post is sponsored by Wild About Argyll and Caledonian MacBrayne ferries.
How To Get To The Isle of Jura
Jura is called the ”island of wilderness” for a reason – it’s a journey to get there, however, it’s a journey with many rewards. To reach Jura, you need to take two ferries- the first to Port Askaig on Islay, and then the smaller ferry across to Jura.
An island adventure starts for me the moment I step onto a Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) ferry. The ferry itself is its own adventure, and I love standing on the deck watching the beautiful views of remote islands as the ferry pulls away from the mainland. If you’re eagle-eyed, you may even spot a variety of wildlife, including dolphins, eagles and seals.
Inside, you can cosy up inside with some delicious locally-sourced Scottish scran, and relax with a book as you are swept away to your island destination.
I was lucky enough to try the new Isle of Islay ferry en route to Port Askaig– this ferry is incredibly spacious, with large circular windows to enjoy the view. The ferry was stocked with plenty of Jura produce, so you can enjoy a taste of Jura before you reach the island.
Next, I’ll break down the exact options whether you are driving or using public transport to reach Jura.
For the ease of getting around the island, I recommend taking a car. Jura is actually much bigger than you think; the single coastal road that connects Feolin in the south to Ardlussa in the north takes just over an hour to drive, despite being under 25 miles.
The road is precarious at times, so you need to take your time; however, driving these roads is half the fun of visiting a Scottish island!
If you’re driving…
- Drive to the Kennacraig ferry terminal (3.5 hours from Edinburgh; 2 hours, 10 minutes from Glasgow)
- Get the CalMac ferry from Kennacraig to Port Askaig (2 hours). Make sure you book this ferry several months in advance as car spaces can sell out!
- Get the smaller Jura ferry from Port Askaig to Feolin – a turn-up-and-go service (5 minutes).
- From here, it’s a 20-minute drive to Craighouse, the main village on the island.
If you’re using public transport…
- Get the Scottish Citylink bus from Glasgow to Kennacraig ferry terminal (3 hours, 20 minutes).
- Get the CalMac ferry from Kennacraig to Port Askaig (2 hours). Make sure you book this ferry several months in advance as car spaces can sell out!
- Get the smaller Jura ferry from Port Askaig to Feolin – a turn-up-and-go service (5 minutes).
- From here, you can get the bus to Craighouse, the main village on the island.
Best Accommodation on The Isle of Jura
The perfect place to relax and recharge is Bothan Jura Retreat, self-catering cabins and lodges nestled in nature with views of the mighty Paps of Jura, and Corran Sands, the local beach.
Bothan Jura Retreat is located in Knockrome, the heart of the island, and 3.5 miles north of Craighouse.
Bothan Jura Retreat is home to four self-catering properties:
- Mrs Leonard’s Cottage, a restored cottage and the most spacious of the accommodations, featuring its own private sauna and wood-fired hot tub. Suitable for couples or small families (the couch in the living area transforms into another bed).
- The Rusty Hut, a corban-steel and timber lodge with a kitchen, bathroom, and living area, with a king bed accessible via a ladder. There is an enclosed garden (suitable for dogs) and a private, wood-fired hot tub.
- The Black Hut, a timber lodge with a kitchen, bathroom, and living area, with a king bed accessible via a ladder.
- The Shepard’s Hut, a snug, extremely basic shepherd’s hut that is suitable for singles or couples looking for an upgrade to camping. No kitchen or bathroom – but guests can use a portaloo and shower in emergencies.
I stayed in The Rusty Hut, with its gorgeously vibrant orange exterior, wood-fired hot tub surrounded by nature, a library ladder leading up to the bedroom; it’s easily summarised as ‘Yvette approved accommodation!’.
As soon as I arrived, I relaxed into my accommodation, enjoying a glass of wine while sketching the outline of the Paps of Jura visible from my door. I watched the flurry of birds enjoying a meal at the bird feeder, and in the evening, I enjoyed a home-cooked pie for dinner (you can purchase frozen pies, pastries, and pizza dough from Bothan Jura Retreat). I warmed my hands by the fire pit before easing into my wood-fired hot tub. It was utter bliss!
For the Wim Hof fans – Bothan Jura Retreat has its very own ice barrel!
I tried it for the very first time, and while, yes, it was freezing, the high I experienced afterwards was so worth it.
Bothan Jura Retreat also run the Bothan Jura Wild Sauna, a mobile sauna you can usually find a short walk from the accommodation at Corran Sands or in Craighouse. I’ll share more detail about the sauna in the next section!
Click here to book Bothan Jura Retreat
7 Wellness Things To Do On Jura
1. Book a relaxing Sound Bath
My first wellness activity on Jura was a Sound Bath with Helen from Whispering Woods and Sound Therapy – located at Bothan Jura Retreat.
I love a Sound Bath – if you’re not familiar with it, it’s basically a meditation practice with sound. You lie down, focus on your breathing and listen to the sounds of crystal singing bowls, chimes, and gongs as they reverberate around the room. It’s so relaxing!
Helen has recently started running Sound Bath sessions on both Islay and Jura.
Click here to contact Helen via Facebook to see when she’ll be hosting her next session.
2. Have a Reiki session with Denise
I had a fantastic Reiki healing treatment with Denise from Jura Natural Healing. Denise is originally from Germany, but now calls Jura home.
She came to my accommodation at Bothan Jura Retreat – it was so nice to wake up, shower and wander across to the retreat room for my treatment.
Reiki is gentle and non-invasive – you can have a hands-on or hands-off treatment – it’s up to you! You simply lie there and let the energy flow through you. I always feel so relaxed after a reiki session!
To book a treatment with Denise, email her at deniserozgajura@gmail.com
3. Wild swimming at Corran Sands
Corran Sands is an excellent beach for wild swimming – think beautifully bright white sand and azure waters. It’s also a safe place to swim as the water remains quite shallow a long way out.
A local told me this is where the kids on Jura learn to swim. Even when the weather was particularly wild, it was shallow and safe enough to go for a dook.
4. Sweat out your stresses at Bothan Jura Wild Sauna
Ever since trying my first outdoor sauna last year, I’ve been hooked! Sauna culture is growing massively in Scotland, and I love trying out all the different outdoor saunas around the country.
Bothan Jura Wild Sauna is mobile and can be found at Corran Sands or next to the beach at Craighouse. During my visit, it was based at Corran Sands. This was my first time trying a sauna on a beach, and it was so soothing watching the waves crash into the shore, with the Paps of Jura in view from the windows of the sauna.
Bothan Jura Wild Sauna is usually based at Corran Sands (it’s mobile, so it can sometimes be at other locations around the island), and fits 4-5 people.
Click here to book Bothan Jura Wild Sauna
5. Go for a leisurely e-bike ride with Jura Cycles
I highly recommend hiring an e-bike from Jura Cycles in Craighouse and cycling to Corran Sands. It’s a relatively short and flat journey, and along the way I spotted seals sunbathing on rocks, and a bevvy of swans feasting on seaweed on the seashore.
I enjoyed a picnic on the beach – Antlers provided me with a packed lunch that featured their homemade focaccia. My word, what a treat after a leisurely cycle!
Click here to rent a bike with Jura Cycles
6. Forest bathing with Faye
Intensive deer grazing has left Jura with little woodland, but the pockets that remain are utterly tranquil and full of life.
I joined a forest bathing practice, led by Faye from Wild Senses Forest Bathing, who, after moving to the island for work, decided to stay and make it her home.
She led us on a gentle guided walk through a woodland, and encouraged us to stop and notice as many small details as we could, giving us tiny magnifying glasses so we could see beyond what the naked eye allows.
Forest Bathing is the perfect way to connect with nature on Jura, and the positive effects can stay with you for up to a week!
Contact Faye at wildsensesforestbathing@gmail.com to book a Forest Bathing session
7. Retail therapy at Camella Crafts and The Whisky Island Gallery & Studio
If you’re looking for a gift to remind yourself of your time on Jura, Camella Crafts is stocked with everything from homewares to clothing, children’s toys to locally made crafts – there is quite literally something for everyone.
Located in the same building, you will find The Whisky Island Gallery & Studio, home to the brilliant photographer Konrad Borkowski. His photography of Jura and neighbouring Islay is just gorgeous – I had a really great chat with him about wildlife photography (a new passion of mine), and he even took my portrait for me!
Where To Eat & Drink on Jura
Rum tasting at Deer Island
Deer Island Rum is located at The Pier Garage in Craighouse and owned by locals Charlotte and Michael. They have a delicious spiced rum as well as a coffee liqueur that would be outstanding in an Espresso Martini.
I’m not usually a rum drinker, but I really liked both of their rums. You can also try their Jura-inspired cocktails at Antlers Bakehouse & Bar!
Click here for their opening information
Jura Distillery
Then there’s the famous Jura Distillery – home to my favourite whisky in all of Scotland.
Fun fact: Jura Journey was the whisky that got me into whisky – so it was fun to visit and see where it’s made!
You can book a distillery tour and learn all about how this whisky is made, and end your tour with a tasting of this excellent dram.
Click here to book a distillery tour
Gin tasting at Lussa Gin
Lussa Gin is a female-owned gin distillery, located in the north of the island, and it’s Scotland’s most remote gin distillery!
The three ladies who started Lussa Gin, Claire, Georgina and Sofie, are a force; their gin has won multiple awards (including one for innovation, after they started freezing their botanicals) and, if you haven’t guessed it by now, tastes incredible.
When you visit their distillery, you can enjoy a tasting in the garden where they grow many of the ingredients for their gin.
Click here to tour Lussa Gin
Try soul-nourishing food at Antlers Bakehouse & Bar
Antlers is now one of my firm favourite places to eat, not just in Jura, but in Scotland! Antlers is a bakery and cafe by day, and pizza and wine bar by night.
If you get the opportunity, visit several times to try everything on their menu – because it’s all fantastic.
One of my biggest regrets is not trying their cinnamon scroll. Next time!
Get a warming Sunday Roast at Jura Hotel
When you’re on Jura, be sure to try a Sunday Venison roast at the Jura Hotel. The hotel offers relaxed, hearty scran, with views of the bay in Craighouse.
They also have a wide range of spirits, beer and wine, including Lussa Gin, Jura Whisky and Deer Island Rum.
Have I inspired you to visit Jura? Let me know in the comments!
